Travel

Travel inspires. There is nothing like stepping off a plane with suitcase in hand into a landscape that is completely new. Travel gives us different food, different languages, different traditions, different outlooks. Where we are and where we go influences who we are and who we become, and every journey and destination has its story. Travel doesn’t have to be overly expensive or involve exotic locales or thousands of miles. Small trips can have a big impact. Travel simply means going forward with an eye toward discovery. This blog is about our own little discoveries while on the road. I also contribute to CheapOAir.

Bean and Beyond in Chicago

Long before the charismatic Rahm Emanuel ran the Windy City, Mayor Michael Bilandic, sometimes referred to “Mayor Bland,” supported passage of an ordinance that would change the face of Chicago. Called the Percent for Art Ordinance, it stipulates any city buildings and spaces undergoing renovation or new construction devote 1.33 percent of the cost to promoting original artwork on the premises. Public parks, police stations, and libraries being built or receiving a face-lift were mandated to include art in the project. The ordinance was passed in 1978, one year after Bilandic married the director of the Chicago Council on Fine Arts. The Council was later restructured and renamed the Department of Cultural Affairs and Special Events.

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During my first trip to Chicago last week, I was astounded by all the public art. Maybe that sounds silly if you don’t live in a big city, but I’m saying this after having lived in the New York City metro area for almost the past decade being surrounded by all kinds of art, from street graffiti to Monet. While in Chicago, I experienced public art in the expected places like at Grant Park and Millennium Park where the beloved “Bean” known officially as “Cloud Gate” designed by Anish Kapoor stands. Beyond the Bean, I kept bumping into art, like the “Flying Dragon” sculpture (which I thought was a fish) near a tulip garden, or the water fall over a monolith-like computerized screen showing a woman’s face. Sometimes I didn’t even know where I was walking. I just wandered and took photos. I’m sure there’s a guide out there with explanations about what I saw, but instead of planning, mapping and reading, I roamed the Grant Park-Millennium Park-South Michigan Avenue area before I had to catch a bus to a company dinner. Apparently several parks and public buildings throughout Chicago are like this…art is everywhere. Whether this is Bilandic’s legacy or he just got the ball rolling, I don’t know, but art thrives in Chicago.

This piece right along Lake Michigan is called “Flamenco Revisited.”

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Another leading lady reaching toward the sky in Chicago is “Magdalene,” a piece I was eager to see and thrilled to come across without trying. Designed by sculptor Dessa Kirk, the piece becomes entwined with its surrounding blooms as flowers crawl up her skirt. Chicago’s harsh, long winters, typical for Great Lakes communities, make for short, but hot, summers, so blooms will blossom soon.

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The “Flying Fish…um Dragon.”

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Installed in 2007, “The Bean” is popular among locals, tourists, and school groups, and attracted all three during a sunny, bright afternoon in downtown Chicago.

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The renowned Art Institute of Chicago is the largest art museum in the Midwest and among the most prestigious museums in the United States. Located on South Michigan Avenue by Millennium Park, the museum offers free admission every Thursday from 5:00 – 8:00 pm. The gift shop had this quietly moving piece that made me think of Mother’s Day. I really wanted to buy it but then recalled I was doing Chicago on a budget.

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Purplish lilies sprout from the ground not too far from the famous Clarence F. Buckingham Memorial Fountain. The fountain has been a beloved gathering spot since its dedication in 1927 and was inspired by the opulence at Versailles.

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Kids splash in the water while images of a smiling woman are projected from behind a waterfall. Nearby, tulips sunbathed.

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A hallway in the historic Hilton Chicago hotel features a painting called “Faces of Chicago.”

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Can’t tell you what this is but I can tell you it involves pipes.

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Walk between Terminals 1 and 2 at Chicago O’Hare Airport and there’s a corridor gallery featuring works by student artists who participate in the Chicago program After School Matters. People whizzed back and forth thumbing iphones while I pointed my iphone at windows, benches and glass dangling things so I could take pictures. One woman walked up and said “Isn’t this beautiful?” as if we were the only two people in the airport noticing and perhaps at that moment, we were. The kids art works made me giddy, so giddy that I donated $100 and tweeted their praises because, well, I’m a marshmallow. These two benches below were painted by kids.

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Near the student art work corridor is a mural that’s more like a mirror of Chicago. These guys need no introduction.

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CondeNast Traveler just published more about Chicago’s public art scene, which you can read about here. I’ll save these parks and pieces for the next visit.

Biting the Big Apple

If you’re thinking about visiting the Big Apple, your timing couldn’t be better when it comes to relatively inexpensive outdoor dining options. I use the term “dining” loosely here, for I am talking about the growing New York City food truck scene. Spring and summer are fantastic times to walk New York City’s neighborhoods and sample all the different food trucks, captured here in my first Lonely Planet article, which was a blast to report. Plus the timing of this article is perfect because May 4-12 is National Travel and Tourism Week. To quote President Obama: “Tourism contributes to the success of the American and world economies…” And through travel and tourism we learn from each other, about each other, we try new foods, hear new languages, and see new ways of experiencing our world.

New York City offers a smorgasbord of foods, languages and experiences, with dozens of food trucks circling uptown, midtown and downtown, dishing up almost every ethnic flavor out there. You can try several trucks at once at the monthly Food Truck Rally held in Prospect Park, Brooklyn. As the weather warms up, more trucks will be out and about, including Big Gay Ice Cream Truck, which returns for the summer season at Union Square Park later this month.

Many thanks to the folks at the New York City Food Truck Association who helped with this story and who always lend a hand to New Yorkers, whether it’s Hurricane Sandy relief or simply keeping this city a fun, funky place to live. To learn more about New York City’s food trucks, especially how to cook what they cook, check out the newly released cookbook/love letter “New York a la Cart: Recipes and Stories from the Big Apple’s Best Food Trucks” which features how some of these foodies got their starts on the streets. Come visit and have a food truck picnic with eight million of your best friends.

My husband Mike enjoying meat strewn over fried carbohydrates while I…

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…sip a ‘Walk the Plank’ smoothie from Green Pirate Juice made with kale, cucumber and pineapple.

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Japan Part 3 – Tokyo, the Cleanest, Safest Place on the Planet

I like contrasts so it should come as no surprise that I booked a five-star, $600 per night hotel for our weekend in Tokyo and then spent the weekend searching for free things to do. This wasn’t hard given Tokyo’s plethora of immaculately kept public city parks and gardens. Tokyo IS the First World, folks. The United States has a long ways to go to catch up to Japanese efficiency, cleanliness and orderliness, which can be found in abundance throughout city parks, the subway system, restaurants, shops and public bathrooms, and that’s just the beginning. Even Tsukiji Fish Market wasn’t as gross as you would expect considering all the vital organs getting tossed about. New York City has a lot going for it, but Tokyo buzzes with 13 million people and yet I didn’t see a scrap of food or an emptied condom wrapper lying on the sidewalk or along the train platforms (I have nearly stepped on both along the Jersey Shore). Let’s put it this way: I won’t wear flip-flops in New York City, but I’d walk barefoot around Tokyo. I could gush senselessly about Japan’s toilet technology–their porcelain buses are superior to American cars. Even public bathrooms had warmed seats.

We stayed at the Park Hyatt Tokyo hotel near Shinjuku Station not because a decade earlier that’s where Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson filmed Lost in Translation, but because the hotel has one of the best pool views in the world, according to Travel and Leisure. I’m a hotel pool junkie and base hotel choices not just on price or location, but on the quality of its pool. The 20-meter “sky” pool at Park Hyatt Tokyo was amazing, although you can’t see Mount Fuji while swimming in the water. You need to get out of the pool and, bam! there’s Mount Fuji staring you down from about 60 miles away. I couldn’t stop taking pictures of this magnificent mountain. The only other people I saw at the pool were middle-aged Western male executives getting in a workout while I did a half hour worth of strokes in my bikini. Total bliss.

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While enjoying five-star amenities (we get what the fifth star stands for–unparalleled awesomeness), we sought free family-friendly fun around Tokyo. Five words: public parks and window shopping. Neither costs much except the squeaky-clean subway ride to get around, and both yield plenty of cultural stimulation. Our hotel and a nearby playground provided a lot to see and do without going very far, plus even our room had a view of the great mountain, which made the hotel even more worthwhile. After poking around the hotel area, we ventured farther afield to a number of parks and shops.

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Tokyo Tower and the aquarium in its “basement” below the foundation aren’t free, but adjacent Shiba Park costs nothing. Statues of “Jizbosatusu,” said to protect the souls of stillborn children, line the grounds. It’s spooky, yet peaceful and pretty, like many cemeteries even though no one is buried here (that we know of). The statues are decorated with knitted caps and baby clothes, and many hold pinwheels that spin in the breeze. Zojo-ji temple, a Buddhist temple, stands near the rows of statues and gardens. Walk in, make a donation, light incense and say a prayer. We did.

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Ueno Park is Tokyo’s oldest public park, created in 1873. It is near Ueno Station and home to temples, ponds, water fountains, nearly 9,000 different types of trees, hundreds of plants and flowers, and several cultural institutions including art, science and natural history museums. Ueno Park embodied Japanese austerity and botanical whimsy, with cherry blossom boughs waving to people from everywhere. You could easily spend a day there, but since we only had three days in Tokyo, we breezed through Ueno Park and Tokyo National Museum in about two hours, plus our feet were sore. We perked up with ice cream for about $3 USD that came in cool Japanese flavors, like sweet potato, cherry blossom, and green tea, in addition to traditional chocolate and vanilla.

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Around downtown Tokyo…not sure how dreamy this shop is for ladies since it was closed.

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Everyone’s favorite mutant lizard can be found in another hygienic city park near a Starbucks and a bridal shop selling white Western-style gowns.

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There’s plenty to look at around Tokyo, especially the people watching and fashion. Shopping opportunities are boundless. When it comes to priorities, it’s “shopping for clothes, food, and then paying for housing,” says a friend of Mike’s, who has been living the ex-pat life in Tokyo for the past decade. You can wander all over Tokyo, not spend any yen, and return feeling visually overwhelmed, from the colorful, never dull Tsukiji Fish Market…

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…to posh department stores that are equally colorful.

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You will find tons of color as well as funky mushrooms at KiddyLand toy store, a strange, hypnotic, noisy place.

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And, of course, Hello Kitty, hawks everything from doughnuts to attitude, because next to Godzilla, she rules.

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We’re Just Tenants Here

The Earth’s tallest mountain, Mount Everest, is located along the Nepal/Tibet/China border, stands an astounding 29,035 feet, and grows a quarter inch every year. Garbage grows with the mountain; Mount Everest has become such a popular place that several decades worth of trash have accumulated. An estimated 50 tons of garbage, including a rusting helicopter, food waste, and enough abandoned camping equipment to house hundreds if not thousands of refugees, are up there. One Earth Day, the Nepalese took a break from operating as tour guides, switched gears to be garbage men, and hauled down about 4,400 pounds of junk off the mountain. In the true spirit of recycling, or upcycling, as some call it, the rubbish is finding a second life as objets d’arts thanks to Da Mind Tree.

Mount Everest epitomizes the dichotomy and complexity of travel; people explore the world, they litter, they move on, garbage piles up, soon marring the very beauty of what was there to explore in the first place. Yet travel can inspire thoughtful leadership and visionary stewardship when it comes to our planet, a belief espoused by The International Ecotourism Society. The very act of travel or tourism can be a vehicle for conservation. We’re all capable of traveling responsibly and minimizing our impact, from simple acts like reusing our towels at hotels to tossing our plastic water bottles into recycling receptacles instead of into trash bins to bringing a portable coffee mug around the world (as my husband actually does because he consumes coffee constantly) instead of filling styrofoam cups everywhere.

Next spring, we’re vacationing at the HQ of global conservation, Costa Rica, a model for green living. Costa Rica understands that green (also my favorite color) makes people happy. When animals and plants thrive, people thrive. America’s National Park Service upholds this concept every day. Think about some of the favorite places you have visited or camped at or hiked. Would you want a pile of trash blocking your view of Longs Peak Mountain in Colorado? Want to stroll along the Santa Monica beach kicking empty bottles and cans? What about snorkeling in Key West and having a tire float toward your face?

Below are some of my favorite places on the planet featuring animals and landscapes from the four continents we have had the privilege to see. I push my family to live green both at home and on the road (or in the sky) for somewhat selfish reasons; yes, it’s the right thing to do, but we want to keep traveling. We want to enjoy the land and the sea and all that Earth has to offer and keep it free of man-made junk interfering with our fun and our time on Earth. Mother Nature is the landlady here; we’re just tenants.

A pelican by our boat in Key West, Florida, USA
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Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado, USA
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Cherry blossom trees along the Philosopher’s Walk in Kyoto, Japan
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Santa Monica beach, California, USA
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Big Sur, California, USA
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An iguana says hello in the Galapagos Islands, Ecuador
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Sheep graze at Woodstock Farm Animal Sanctuary in Catskill Mountains, New York, USA
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Birds chase each other along a canal in Brugges, Belgium
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Mayan ruins along the Caribbean coast, Tulum, Mexico
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Japan Part 2 – Tiny, Cute Pieces of Healthy Food in Cute Boxes

I was eating a bowl of kale with chopsticks at a noodle bar in downtown Woodstock, New York, when I thought about how different the mainstream American diet could be. I railed against the typical American way of eating before I went to Japan and, then after nine days in Japan, I experienced just how screwed up we are in the United States when it comes to balanced eating (as well as many other things, but this blog focuses on travel). This is what you usually find at American airports, which reflect what you find in many American neighborhoods.

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McDonald’s and Starbucks can be found in Japan, but thankfully they don’t dominate a street corner. In Japan, I ate fish for breakfast, lunch and dinner. I ate seaweed and pickled vegetables with my fish. I ate a few things I couldn’t identify. Instead of a basket of bread while you wait for the main course, we received a bowl of cabbage leaves coated in a light, tangy vinaigrette, which was delicious, and, as Mike noted, a more nutritious alternative than nachos. Many of my meals had a slice of roasted acorn squash, and I got to the point where I so looked forward to this fleshy crescent chunk of food that I was disappointed when my entree didn’t feature acorn squash. Thanks to Japan, I have an acorn squash sitting on my kitchen counter at home, waiting to be roasted, sliced, and added to just about everything except breakfast cereal.

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I’d like to say we were among the throngs that waited for breakfast at the famous Daiwa Sushi at Tokyo’s Tsukiji Fish Market, but we weren’t. Perhaps next time. Tsukiji Fish Market has a ton of cheap eateries, so we opted for one without a line and enjoyed some of the freshest sushi, specifically the chu toro, a tasty cut of tuna, and I don’t even think we spent $20 USD. Walking around Tsukiji Fish Market, there’s so much on the chopping block every single day, you wonder if there’s anything left in the sea. Japan accounts for 30 percent of the world’s tuna consumption. After having fish three meals a day, several days in a row, I now think that nothing at the Tsukiji Fish Market goes to waste.

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And then there’s that lunch in Kyoto’s Gion District that my daughter refers to as “the lunch with too many eyeballs.” Whole shrimp had been tossed into all of our entrees, and a shrimp antennae was eerily waving from Anna’s bowl of broth. I tried to fish out the rest of the shrimp body before Anna noticed what was floating beneath her noodles, but, failed.

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Eyeballs aside, our meals always featured vegetables, even at breakfast where little salads were often served alongside a “Western” buffet of eggs and bacon. Japanese serving sizes were small and always filling. Everything was lightly flavored and not buried in sauces. No one felt gassy, bloated, and bursting at the belt buckle with regret. The Japanese are known for their love of perfection and presentation, and every entree we received, from takeout sushi at Tokyo’s “Family Mart” convenience chain to the Bento boxes on the bullet train to Park Hyatt Tokyo’s bountiful breakfast buffet to the Mexican Bento boxes in Kyoto were thoughtfully arranged. Nothing ever, ever looked thrown together by a cook who had lost his appetite for the job. Even “the lunch with too many eyeballs” was attractive and deceptively appealing (I’m not a shrimp lover, whether it’s just the tail or a tail attached to eyeballs).

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I’ve said this on Twitter and I’ll repeat it here: why hasn’t the Azuki bean taken off in America? Ok, maybe Americans don’t associate the word “bean” with dessert. My first introduction to Azuki bean sweets took place fifteen years ago at a Chinese restaurant in Vancouver, British Columbia, and after that I was hooked. Why can’t sweet Azuki bean paste be added to the Pop-tart? Americans don’t know what they’re missing. I’m not saying ditch chocolate, but rice cakes with sweet Azuki bean paste are delicious, they go great with green tea, and are the perfect way to cap a meal of fresh fish, rice and vegetables. For folks craving more Western style desserts, Kyoto offered beautifully crafted “Nature Doughnuts,” as they were called, that were too cute to eat, and did not contain Azuki beans. Japanese sweets are always beautifully wrapped and the sweets themselves sometimes looked like dried flowers in glass.

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After a week of fish and rice, we all started to crave some familiarity. While strolling Kyoto near Ponto-cho, part of the Hanamachi district there, we walked by a gleaming avocado which turned out to be a sign for Cafe Dining Avocado Mexican. I’m a guacamole junkie so lunch was Mexican Bento boxes, an avocado cappuccino, a broccoli-kiwi smoothie (yes, my favorite color is green), delicious cactus ice cream served with slices of fresh avocado and “Day of the Dead” spongecake with fruit. The place appeared popular among locals; few waiters spoke English though they offered an English menu, as was common around Kyoto, and the restaurant was filled with trendy-looking Japanese ladies who lunch. It was interesting to experience a Japanese interpretation of Mexican food; again, the servings were small, but appropriate, and absolutely delicious and spicy. Anna was relieved to eat something she recognized, and everyone enjoyed the break from the seafood and rice. Our other “Western” caving was a quick evening bite at Mos Burger, which isn’t yummy, but is certainly visually entertaining. I kept a menu as a souvenir.

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Back to portion control in America and eating my bowl full of kale. The bowl overflowed with kale and ended up providing three meals over the weekend. Three meals for $11 may feel like a bargain, but I would’ve much preferred half that bowl of kale, which would have filled me up, for half the price. Mike’s chicken entree took up more than half his plate and was swimming in sauce. I know complaints about US food portions tend to focus on fast food chains, but the kale came from a chic noodle bar and the chicken came from a fancy schmancy restaurant. Why do we dish up so much for a single meal? Are these large portions rooted in our frontier origins…are we really that worried about finding our next meal? I longed for Japanese balance on my plate.

Back to Japan, where portions were appropriate and opportunities for walking off breakfast, lunch and dinner were boundless. After filling up on small servings of healthy foods, we strolled Japan’s cherry blossomed streets because everything was in full bloom while we were there. This was the view outside Cafe Dining Avocado Mexican in Kyoto near the canal. This Mexican joint is in a beautiful neighborhood known for geisha houses, traditional tea houses and the preservation of classic Japanese architecture. There are cobblestone streets and small lovely private homes, restaurants, and shops along the way. This area is what you think of when you imagine “Kyoto” for a few blocks away, you encounter more of the urban artery with department stores lining block after block. What you do learn from walking around Japan’s streets is whether it’s a historical neighborhood or a busy thoroughfare, the Japanese take a lot of pride in their cuisine, and just about anywhere you go (except maybe Mos Burger), you’ll find something delectable and thoughtfully, artfully crafted.

Strolling Kyoto