Tag Archives: yoga

Seeking Enlightenment in the Berkshires

To me, and perhaps to other New Yorkers, the Berkshires look like the Catskills; those same soft blue ripples of rock rising and falling to the north. Yet the Berkshires have a very different narrative than the Catskills. Today, the Catskills feature some of the Rust Belt deterioration that dominates so much of upstate New York, peppered with farms, ski resorts, struggling businesses and some of the hippie fervor that took root there decades ago and just kept growing. The Berkshires is more matronly, posh, stately, pastoral and charming like Vermont, more connected to New England with its white spire churches reaching toward the sky.

While the hippies were farming in the Catskills, across the border, the healing arts crowd were setting up camp and eventually gathered enough resources to hang up a shingle and offer yoga classes and workshops on positive energy. This place is called Kripalu and it’s located in the Berkshires in Stockbridge, Massachusetts. The building was once a Jesuit seminary that sat vacant for over a decade, but you’d never know that by the full parking lot, the constant soundtrack of wheeled luggage, the buzz from the cafeteria and the heavy silences coming from the very full yoga and meditation classrooms.

Kripalu

Everyone comes to Kripalu seeking something. There’s a spa, dancing, yoga, meditation, music–almost anything that will help you achieve happiness and calm is offered at Kripalu. Unfortunately for me, this act of seeking kept me indoors the whole time, so I missed out on the beauty that is the Berkshires. This was my first time to the Berkshires and Kripalu, yet what I got over the weekend was just a sampler plate of what’s there. I signed up for a weekend meditation workshop with David Nichtern, who deftly uses humor to teach newbies who can’t sit still how to chill out. On a cold winter weekend, my meditation class was packed. There were men, women, young people, old people, psychologists, entrepreneurs, military wives, empty-nesters, people coping with chronic conditions and people coping with losing loved ones. We all sat on our cushions, eager to let go of what had brought us there.

Berkshires 2

Getaways at Kripalu tend to focus on interiors, *your* interior. It’s not a typical hotel getaway filled with distractions. Amenities at Kripalu are a little different; there may be beds, but this is a nonprofit institution that depends on donations, so while there is spa, this isn’t fancy-pants stuff. Weekend workshops include food, but when you hear the word “cafeteria” you brace for the worst. The exact opposite happened at Kripalu. The food was delicious and inspiring. I ate kitchari every day and looked up recipes on how I could cook it at home. I was a regular at the “Buddha Bar,” which was where the vegans hung out. There was a gluten-free bread basket area. I ate dahl and saag, butternut squash and quinoa, chick peas and kale. The tabletops offered pink Himalayan salt and the beverage counter offered organic white tea. There’s even a silent breakfast–you are required to enjoy breakfast in contemplative silence (I recommend it). Coffee addicts were out of luck; Kripalu’s cafeteria doesn’t serve coffee so the line at the small cafe across from the gift shop was always long in the morning. But I’m fine without coffee. I’d return to Kripalu just to eat.

And that’s what I think of when I think of the Berkshires; a serene winter weekend cocooned in a facility perched on a hilltop, where the views were amazing, the building felt like a mental institution, and the food was worth second helpings. Kripalu’s accommodations are very spartan so if you’re the type of traveler who requires a certain level of comfort and privacy, dorm-style vacationing may not be for you. I’m not even sure it’s for me. Sharing a bathroom with a hallway full of middle-aged women and a few twenty-somethings gave me recurrent flashbacks of college freshman dorm life. I’m fine without a TV in the room, but I prefer a private bathroom instead of the corner sink I had in my dorm-like room. Kripalu does offer more adorned rooms at higher prices, and next time, I might just pay a little extra to not have to remember my room key should I have to run to the bathroom in the middle of the night.

But I also need to go back to see the Berkshires, for all I experienced of the region either came from looking out the window while in meditation class at Kripalu or looking out the window during the drive there and back. I missed out on some fantastic hiking, pastoral New Englandness and town square boutique-y charm. There’s a writing workshop held at Blantyre in the Berkshires I might look into, but that event will likely also keep me indoors writing (and probably doing some yoga and meditation). I believe the Berkshires are more than a pretty view through a window, but it may be a while before I get to find out.

Three Places Where I Want to Om

One sunny late afternoon while working at a dot-com in downtown Seattle, I decided to skip my usual after-work routine, which was just watching TV (back when I used to watch TV) and head to the gym to take a Monday night yoga class. My back was sore from sitting in front of a computer all day, and, after eight months of living in Seattle, I found myself wanting to embrace all that was hot and cool in Seattle in 1998: Internet cafes, Google, filet mignon encrusted with espresso chips, and yoga.

Cliche, but true–that class changed my life.

Fourteen years later, I can’t get through the week without downard facing dog, warrior poses 1, 2 and 3, ardha chandrasana and parivrtta anjaneyasana–movements that unfurl torqued muscles and mind. I’ve done Ashtanga, Bikram, Iyengar and Hatha, and I’m itching to take my moves on the road and practice yoga from different points on the map. I don’t have the budget or the time right now, but I’m bookmarking these yoga vacations for when the time is right:

1. Big Sky Yoga Retreat, Wilsall, Montana

Big Sky’s tagline “Add a little yeehaw to your Namaste” had me at hello. Top that with my desire to see Montana, and I’m ready to throw down plastic to get there asap. Big Sky Yoga Retreats combines a love for yoga, horseback riding and the great outdoors, and by “combine,” I mean very combined–while sitting on a horse under said Big Sky you do yoga stretches. Located in south central Montana off of US Highway 89, Wilsall is home to about 200 people and rests in the Shields River Valley near two mountain ranges: the Crazy Mountains to the west (that sounds fun, right?) and the Absaroka Mountains to the south with Shields River cutting through town and offering fresh trout, if fishing is your game. Big Sky offers several yoga packages, as well as scholarships to yogis struggling with breast cancer who want to participate in its “Cowgirls Vs. Cancer, Healing with Horses and Yoga” retreat. Three-night retreats hover around the $1,600 range, and the August retreat is already sold out.

2. Sabina, Italy

One Hundred Skies Yoga Adventures offers a weeklong getaway to Sabina, Italy, about an hour’s train ride north of Rome, where yogis practice sun salutations facing olive groves and centuries old monasteraries, such as Farfa Abbey built in the sixth or seventh century, depending on who you ask. My first and only trip to Italy was in 1996, long before blogging, Twitter and cell phones that took photos, so I’m due back for a return to capture and chronicle Italy’s beauty. One Hundred Skies Yoga retreat to Italy takes place September 29 – October 6, and for prices ranging from $1,745 to $2,295 depending on room occupancy, you enjoy morning and afternoon yoga sessions, garden to table vegetarian dining, staying in a 17th century villa, hiking, and massage.

3. The Goddess Garden, Cahuita, Limon, Costa Rica

I was originally drawn to The Goddess Garden by its name, and then was completely sold by its location. White sandy beach, white-faced monkeys, iguanas, and the sounds of the rainforest enveloping you morning, noon and night. Caressed by the Caribbean, the Goddess Garden is located on the eastern coast of Costa Rica and Cahuita National Park is the main draw. In addition to yoga, the Goddess Garden specializes in eco-tourism and offers a rainforest canopy adventure, sea and river kayaking, horseback riding on the beach, and (my favorite) baula turtle (aka leatherback sea turtle, the largest in the world) night time egg-laying tour in Gandoca, two hours from Cahuita. The Goddess Garden is home to a yoga and meditation center, and plays hostess to yoga teachers from afar who hold their retreats there. Prices run the gamut depending on the package, but for those looking to take in some pranayama amidst the jungle, Goddess Garden offers a breathtaking spot on the planet in which to do so.

I’m ready to pack the yoga mat and head to the mountains, olive groves, and the beach. If only my bank account supported my whims.

Namaste.