6
May
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More Thoughts on Camping

Memorial Day weekend approaches, which for some strange reason signals the beginning of the barbecue season, the pool season, and the pitch-a-tent-outdoors season. When we lived in Seattle, people went camping the way I run to the grocery store for milk. You packed up your gear, drove in some direction and within less than an hour you were pitching a tent in God’s country and telling stories by a campfire. That’s harder to do here in metropolitan New York City, and even once you drive two hours in any direction from the Big Apple, you’ve barely reached the border between retail-centric suburbia and dying mom-and-pop shop smalltown.

We’ve always liked to mix it up, from five-star amenities (which we did in Quito and Quebec) to sleeping on the earth. Before my suburban mom life in metro New York City, I camped in several national and state parks. My national park list is not as impressive as I’d like it to be, but it will grow, and so far includes repeat stays at: Assateague Island National Seashore in Maryland where wild horses strut across the sand past RVs; Shenandoah National Park in Virginia’s beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains, where I saw this very haunting and lovely shadow of a deer nibbling grass near our tent; and Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, where I went whale watching and ate blueberry pie.

Just the words “national park” imply something sacred and shielded from the rest of the world. The parks are as unique as faces and have their own distinct rhythms and stories to tell. Assateague is a real treat if you time it right; June is a gorgeous time of year in the salt marshes with hot sunny days and clear, chilly, though comfortable evenings (if you’re dressed warm enough and have thermal sleeping bags–it does get brisk by the ocean). However, July is a completely different story at Assateague; it’s humidity at its worse, and when we visited, we battled thunderstorms and mosquitoes. The bugs were so bad that even when I stood by the campfire to eat breakfast thinking the smoke would deter them, the mosquitoes would kamikaze into my orange juice or coffee. Despite that negative experience, I did not sell our gear when we got home (you’ll see why that’s significant in a moment). Other national parks on my list include Rocky Mountain National Park and the Grand Canyon, but I only visited there, and did not get a chance to camp. Later this summer, we’ll visit Redwood National and State Park in California. I have yet to visit our first national park Yellowstone, which predates the creation of the National Park Service by more than 40 years.

My most memorable camping experience occurred in Orick, California, where we camped on the beach and feared the state icon–the brown bear–sniffing out our S’mores and mauling us to death. Aside from the bears, the weather was a bit rough. We tried to cook pasta and enjoy it with red wine, but it was so cold and windy on the beach that our food chilled the second it was removed from the campfire and our tent was blown down repeatedly. Sand constantly blew into my eyes, nose and mouth. After a few hours of this, I was hoping a giant bear would find us just so we could have an excuse to leave. I got so fed up with the whole trip that I sat in Mike’s 1987 Dodge Aries reading the The New Yorker while Mike being Mike tried to salvage the weekend. Once we were back home in Seattle, I immediately sold all our camping equipment to a colleague. A few years later, missing the land and wanting to sleep under the stars again, we went back out and bought new gear.

Families frequently use camping and escapes to Mother Nature as a way to switch off and reconnect. You don’t need to wait for summer vacation to do unplug. Last weekend, I went to our local nature center and sat listening to the birds while my iphone sat idly by. I felt like I was listening to the soundtrack at the spa. Just a few minutes of tuning into the breezes and the birds and not compulsively checking email was fantastic! My daughter seems to be a budding conservationist and she’s at a great age to learn more about our national parks and transition from occasional participant, which is what I am, to active advocate.

That said, if we want to continue to have quiet green spaces to enjoy, we need to protect them. Modern development, political interests and greed constantly encroach on the borders of lands sworn to public protection. Visit the National Parks Conservation Association website and there’s a laundry list of rules looking to be made unofficial by our officials, with everything from allowing the hunting of wolves to the building of coal plants. If you care about sharing national parks with future generations, I hope you will support the National Park Foundation’s efforts to salvage what’s left. In some ways, I suppose we’re lucky to have what we have. It can feel wonderous and depressing to imagine what the United States looked like before Interstate 90 connected the East Coast to the West Coast, when Lewis and Clark had to find their way through thickets of lush forest and national parks weren’t “national parks” but simply land that stretched on to the heavens.

29
Apr
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Taking it Easy at the Foot of Mount Mansfield

Next Sunday is All Species Day in the capital city of Vermont, a spring festival that sounds like it would be as old as the Green Mountains itself, but actually took off during the 1980s. Unfortunately, we missed the party in Montpelier by just a few weeks, but managed to enjoy an unseasonably warm day in northern Vermont and appreciated the species we did encounter along the trail and on our dinner plates.

I’m now convinced the time to enjoy Vermont is not October for its foliage or February for the slopes but in April when there are fewer people around. In the winter Mount Mansfield– just shy of 4,400 feet, Vermont’s tallest mountain–dominates scene and sky in Stowe, attracting hikers and skiers from all over. Traffic chokes the little downtown area. Winter gives way to spring, and the state flows with mud and maple syrup. That’s when you get Vermont to yourself. Because then vacationers trickle back for summertime swimming and hiking along Lake Champlain, about a half-hour drive from Stowe, and then the traffic peaks again for fall foliage. We visited at the perfect time–early April when the skiing season was over plus the lack of heavy winter snowfall meant a not-so-muddy-spring, so for 48 hours at Top Notch Resort and Spa we enjoyed Stowe mostly to ourselves.

Top Notch ended up being a centerpoint of our short time there and it was from Top Notch where we enjoyed Mount Mansfield. We took advantage of the outdoor heated pool, the outdoor hot tub, and then once our skin had puckered from so much time in the water and the sun had set, we bundled up in fleece from head to toe and sat by the fire, which is near the pool, and for about $8, roasted a bowl full of marshmallows and made S’mores. How many resorts claim S’mores among their amenities?

Top Notch S’mores are affordable, but their breakfasts and dinners are on the pricey side, especially since we had blown through too much money in Quebec thanks to the lack of street meat for sale. Coming toward the end of our vacation as well as the end of our budget, we explored breakfast and dinner options in downtown Stowe. McCarthys delivers on inexpensive, wholesome, big old-fashioned American breakfasts. We filled up on eggs, bacon, toast, granola, home fries, orange juice and coffee for under $25 for three people. The best way to work off a big New England breakfast is with a contemplative walk through the woods. A few minutes down the road from Top Notch is Smugglers Notch State Park and a trail to Bingham Falls–a path that’s pretty family-friendly although there was some mud and kids need to be aware of, and I love how the sign stated this, “the unstable environment.” Basically, don’t veer from the path and roam toward the edges where it can be very muddy and people can slip and fall.

Continuing with our perfect Vermont day, our hike was followed by the famous Ben & Jerry’s ice cream factory tour in nearby Waterbury, and a wonderful impromptu stop at the glass blowing studio of Glenn Ziemke who was demonstrating the craft he had mastered over 37 years to whomever walked in that day.

Peace, love and ice cream…

…followed by watching shards of glass melt into a tumbler. Rather mesmerizing, actually. Glenn uses old spaghetti sauce jars to store his supplies.

Learning about glass blowing (and purchasing some blown glass) was followed by more swimming to work up an appetite for Frida’s Taqueria and Grill in downtown Stowe. I was initially skeptical about Mexican cuisine in Vermont, but some tourists from Ohio who were unwinding in the hot tub the same time we were persuaded me to give Frida’s a go. Only in New England will you find a hopping cantina on the ground floor of an early 19th century Colonial that’s decorated with the work of a 20th century bisexual Communist Mexican artist of German heritage. The guacamole prepared tableside is truly delicious, and while I’ve been spoiled by some delicious cantinas here in metropolitan New York, the entrees at Frida’s were surprisingly good.

I wish we could party at Frida’s this Saturday to celebrate Cinco de Mayo, then we could grab a few zzz’s before heading to Montpelier for All Species Day on Sunday. Now that would be an awesome Vermont weekend.

Hiking along Bingham Falls

The guacamole at Frida’s was completely consumed shortly after this photo was taken.

And these S’mores disappeared shortly after this photo was taken.

Saying goodnight to Mount Mansfield…

24
Apr
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Romance in the City of No Street Meat

Relaxation and romance do not usually involve kids, but I can honestly say I went to Quebec with an eight-year-old (and with my husband) and found our week there extraordinarily relaxing and romantic.

Maybe it’s because when you’re walking along Petit Champlain you think you’re strolling down Rue Mouffetard. However, all that romantic sauntering can make lovers peckish, so being New Yorkers, we figured we could grab a cheap bite on the go and continue walking, because you know, life’s a rush. Not so.

Unlike our backyard, which is New York City, where hot dog and knish carts compete on the same street corner, there were no street vendors out in Quebec. I thought maybe some old guy would have some sizzling shredded venison he could serve on a bun for $5 and we could walk and nibble, as we’re so accustomed to doing. We were there in early April, and enjoyed a mix of cool, cloudy days with sunny days, but clouds never stopped street carts from pushing carbs and meat in other cities. Rain or shine, you can always buy a hot dog without having to sit at a table. Even in London, you can buy a bag of nuts and keep moving. Mike went crazy in Ecuador because no one served him coffee in a paper cup; he was cornered into sitting down at a table and interacting with a waiter who poured coffee from a pot into a small porcelain receptacle that Mike was not allowed to walk off with.

Like Ecuador, Quebec wants you to stop and engage with humanity. Walk inside a restaurant–usually one with a cozy fire crackling and the subtle smell of maple syrup being put to heat–have a seat and relax. This kind of forced relaxation blew through our dining budget pretty quickly since we wrongly assumed Quebec would be like New York or Paris or London, a city that lets you walk with your food and scatter crumbs all over. When you eat and go, you spend less. When you sit and eat, you spend more. Suddenly the money we had set aside for feeding three people over five days had been eaten through in just two days. Here’s our typical Quebec meal: chat with waiter, muddle through some poorly pronounced French, order, sip wine while waiting, eat slowly, look at the roasting fire, remark about the differences between a waipiti and a caribou (we’re still not entirely sure, but there’s a difference). About an hour into the beginnings of a long meal out, you found yourself, well…relaxed.

I already mentioned all the calorie consumption opporuntunities in Quebec: macaroons, fondue, maple cookies, crepes, poutine, Quebecois torte, even waipiti tartare. Yet, Quebecers are skinny (and dress like New Yorkers; black coats and plenty of rippling scarves). How is this so? Inspired by the great European cities it was built to replicate, Quebec is fantastic for hours and hours of walking, a perfect way to burn off all the fauna and maple sugar you just ate. It’s also a city built on a cliff, which means if you go down to unwind by the river, and you decide to walk back up to your hotel (most of the city is back up along the cliff looking down on the St. Lawrence), then prepare for a real cardio thigh-toning workout. It’s both healthy and cheap, for the ride up the cliff isn’t free (that’s how Quebecers keep their figures and save for retirement). For those who don’t want to huff and puff their way back to their hotel rooms and would rather work up sweats in a more romantic way, there are some elevators and a funicular railway. For about $2 per person, the funicular will give you a lift back up to the main city streets, not to mention a lovely view of a city clear of the clutter of street carts. Plus, it’s fun to say “funicular.”

13
Apr
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Stuffed!

During my four days in Quebec, I’ve consumed the following: duck, cow, pig, chicken, wapiti, chocolate, cheese, spinach-mushroom crepes, brie with mushrooms, more cheese, maple fondue, baked beans, French onion soup almost every day, Quebecois tortiere, salmon torte (twice), poutine (which means more cheese), McDonald’s (yes, once), macaroons, carrot cake, a handful of strawberries, one dreadfully messy croissant, wine, coffee, hot cocoa and the most expensive glass of orange juice ever to touch my lips.

One of my favorite entrees came from Le Cochon Dingue where I enjoyed fries smothered in very silky, rich gravy, topped with cheese curd and duck confit. Here’s a sexy closeup of tonight’s dinner, which was washed down with real hot cocoa and some carrot cake.

I already mentioned Aux Anciens Canadiens in an earlier blog entry, which is a great way to experience traditional Canadian cuisine–meals that reflect both English and French influences. Here’s Mike wondering whether to order something that flies or something that roams. Both ended up on his plate.

A fantastic spot for lunch is Casse Crepe Breton where the crepes are poured, flipped, and folded right before your eyes. For about $8 you can choose from a variety of ingredients such as spinach, mushrooms, ham, and egg (I’m forgetting the others) and customize your crepe. For an additional $1.50 (all dollar references here are to the Canadian dollar, which is doing slightly better than the American dollar at the moment) you can get a delicious side salad. Another $3.75 gets you a bowl of hot chocolate, which immediately reminded me of being back in Paris where drinking from a bowl feels very cool.

For those with a sweet tooth, there are countless opportunities to spike your blood sugar. Quebec’s dinner entrees often reminded me of dining in Britain’s pubs–meats stuffed in pastries and pie shells. Quebec’s passion for sweets is where I tasted France’s influence. Near Casse Crepe Breton is the “Chocolate Museum” where the air is filled with the sweet smell of freshly ground cocoa. There’s no admission to this museum; it’s two rooms. One is dedicated to the history of chocolate and the adjoining room is dedicated to being a part of that history. Go back and forth between the two and read about chocolate while eating chocolate. Here, Anna admires the chocolate sculptures.

Several blocks away up and down steep sidewalked hills (this is how french-fry loving Quebecers keep their slim figures) is le Quartier Petit Champlain, a cobblestone street of 18th century buildings lined with shops selling painted glass, souvenir T-shirts, First Nation art and memorabilia, tchotckes, jewelry, beaver skins, and handpainted silk scarves. Madame Gigi’s Confiserie is on this street, where plates of rainbow macaroons decorate the windows. I admit the colors of these macaroons were startling at first, but don’t let an extravagant neon green cookie deter you. They come in fabulous flavors like pina colada and taste just as sinful. A delicious place for a bite and a break.

Sampling one of Madame Gigi’s chocolate macaroons before getting back on the bike:

And if chocolate and pina colada macaroons fail to quell your hunger, there are less ostentatious cookies. Many are maple flavored, but Anna received some sugar dusted cookies shaped like le laupin (the hare) and le cochon (the pig). Apologies for the suggestive positioning of the cookies…they came that way.

If you’re interested, during a museum tour today about the Huron-Wendat people, I received a brochure with some recipes, including a recipe for wapiti tartare. I’m not a big meat eater, but First Nation cuisine sounds interesting. I’m stuffed now, but maybe something to try at home? Or we just find another way to make a trip up north to Wendake, which is a half hour drive north of Quebec, and see what’s cooking.

12
Apr
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Oh, Canada!

Colonialism’s footprint runs along the walls of Quebec. The streets look like Paris, yet the shops sell dream catchers, moccasins and hats made of beaver skin. The people speak French, yet vestiges of Inuit and Algonquin words linger; the city’s name “kebec” means in Algonquin “where the river narrows,” referring to where the icy serpentine that is the Saint Lawrence River narrows at a cliff where our hotel, Chateau Frontenac, stands watch and waits for guests to arrive. Designed by American architect Bruce Price, Chateau Frontenac was built to entice luxury travelers riding the Canadian Pacific Railway. More than 100 years later, it’s filled with families enjoying a break from the routine, not to mention a lovely sixth floor swimming pool that offers great views of the city skyline and of the Laurentian Mountains.

I have visited Vancouver and Toronto several times each, but never Quebec City, where this week I am enjoying maple fondue, waipiti, and poutine. I’m managing to still fit into my jeans by swimming every morning, biking along the St. Lawrence, and walking all over old Quebec, including around Quartier Petit Champlain. This neighborhood is very close to Chateau Frontenac and offers the contrasts of the Old and New Worlds. Several artists keep their shops here, but I’ll blog more Quebec’s amazing art scene later.

During our stay, we’re sampling Quebecois cuisine, and have learned “le petit dejeuner” is not at all petit: beans, toast, eggs, sausage, and pork pie. You won’t feel hungry for lunch until about 3 pm. The dinners aren’t petit either. Our menu last night at Aux Anciens Canadiens looked more like a guide to a zoo, but it was actually quite helpful since I thought “waipiti” sounded more like a colorful, tropical bird than a large, hairy cousin to the elk and moose. Since 1675, Aux Anciens Canadiens has been serving gourmet game and spirits to travelers seeking to escape the chill off the river. Come hungry and eat slowly by the fireplace.

Time to digest, from all that I’ve eaten to all that I’ve seen these last few days. More to come from this rich and fascinating city…bonsoir et a demain!

1
Apr
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Three Places Where I Want to Om

One sunny late afternoon while working at a dot-com in downtown Seattle, I decided to skip my usual after-work routine, which was just watching TV (back when I used to watch TV) and head to the gym to take a Monday night yoga class. My back was sore from sitting in front of a computer all day, and, after eight months of living in Seattle, I found myself wanting to embrace all that was hot and cool in Seattle in 1998: Internet cafes, Google, filet mignon encrusted with espresso chips, and yoga.

Cliche, but true–that class changed my life.

Fourteen years later, I can’t get through the week without downard facing dog, warrior poses 1, 2 and 3, ardha chandrasana and parivrtta anjaneyasana–movements that unfurl torqued muscles and mind. I’ve done Ashtanga, Bikram, Iyengar and Hatha, and I’m itching to take my moves on the road and practice yoga from different points on the map. I don’t have the budget or the time right now, but I’m bookmarking these yoga vacations for when the time is right:

1. Big Sky Yoga Retreat, Wilsall, Montana

Big Sky’s tagline “Add a little yeehaw to your Namaste” had me at hello. Top that with my desire to see Montana, and I’m ready to throw down plastic to get there asap. Big Sky Yoga Retreats combines a love for yoga, horseback riding and the great outdoors, and by “combine,” I mean very combined–while sitting on a horse under said Big Sky you do yoga stretches. Located in south central Montana off of US Highway 89, Wilsall is home to about 200 people and rests in the Shields River Valley near two mountain ranges: the Crazy Mountains to the west (that sounds fun, right?) and the Absaroka Mountains to the south with Shields River cutting through town and offering fresh trout, if fishing is your game. Big Sky offers several yoga packages, as well as scholarships to yogis struggling with breast cancer who want to participate in its “Cowgirls Vs. Cancer, Healing with Horses and Yoga” retreat. Three-night retreats hover around the $1,600 range, and the August retreat is already sold out.

2. Sabina, Italy

One Hundred Skies Yoga Adventures offers a weeklong getaway to Sabina, Italy, about an hour’s train ride north of Rome, where yogis practice sun salutations facing olive groves and centuries old monasteraries, such as Farfa Abbey built in the sixth or seventh century, depending on who you ask. My first and only trip to Italy was in 1996, long before blogging, Twitter and cell phones that took photos, so I’m due back for a return to capture and chronicle Italy’s beauty. One Hundred Skies Yoga retreat to Italy takes place September 29 – October 6, and for prices ranging from $1,745 to $2,295 depending on room occupancy, you enjoy morning and afternoon yoga sessions, garden to table vegetarian dining, staying in a 17th century villa, hiking, and massage.

3. The Goddess Garden, Cahuita, Limon, Costa Rica

I was originally drawn to The Goddess Garden by its name, and then was completely sold by its location. White sandy beach, white-faced monkeys, iguanas, and the sounds of the rainforest enveloping you morning, noon and night. Caressed by the Caribbean, the Goddess Garden is located on the eastern coast of Costa Rica and Cahuita National Park is the main draw. In addition to yoga, the Goddess Garden specializes in eco-tourism and offers a rainforest canopy adventure, sea and river kayaking, horseback riding on the beach, and (my favorite) baula turtle (aka leatherback sea turtle, the largest in the world) night time egg-laying tour in Gandoca, two hours from Cahuita. The Goddess Garden is home to a yoga and meditation center, and plays hostess to yoga teachers from afar who hold their retreats there. Prices run the gamut depending on the package, but for those looking to take in some pranayama amidst the jungle, Goddess Garden offers a breathtaking spot on the planet in which to do so.

I’m ready to pack the yoga mat and head to the mountains, olive groves, and the beach. If only my bank account supported my whims.

Namaste.

27
Mar
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Bikini Biscuits Hot off the Cat Walk

Today, this popped into my inbox:

And I promptly started to drool and look at airfares to London. Impulsive? Maybe just a little. But I’ve planned vacations based on news stories about chickens.

The Berkeley Hotel in London’s Knightsbridge neighborhood (near Harrods) announced its Spring/Summer 2012 Prêt-à-Portea afternoon collection. Inspired by the season’s fashions, the Berkeley offers one of the Western world’s most creative, colorful daily afternoon teas for about $50 USD, or thereabouts, that includes posh pastries and savory sandwiches. Sample a Miu Miu vanilla bikini biscuit, Jason Wu’s cherry bavarois and coconut creamed pudding topped with a sexy leg stretching to the moon, and a “fabulous” Christian Louboutin neon yellow high-heeled chocolate cookie–a heel so high and so pointed it could stomp out all pointless cares and concerns. And those are just the cookies!

We did the fashionista tea at the Berkeley in December 2009 when Anna, Mike and I nibbled on a Mulberry Bayswater handbag with silver clasp, a Roger Vivier chocolate ‘over-the-knee’ boot, a Christian Lacroix dark chocolate dress, and a Burberry Prorsum classic trench coat–all washed down with some classic Earl Grey.

Not in the mood to lick a fondant bathing suit? No problem. Beginning May 29 through June 12, the Berkeley is offering less risque tea time confections to commemorate Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee. Only one other British royal reached her Diamond Jubilee and that was Her Majesty Vicky in 1897. Did she eat biscuits shaped like Marilyn Monroe’s legs? Most likely not, but this is the 21st century and I think Queen Elizabeth would appreciate Prêt-à-Portea – The Royal Collection’. Not surprisingly, there are several hat-shaped cookies, given the queen enjoys a well-crafted chapeau and is said to have worn 5,000 hats since being crowned 60 years ago. Dive into delectables such as a biscuit sculpted to look like Queen Elizabeth’s crown worn for her coronation in 1953; a more ceremonial blueberry hat cake reminiscient of what we often see Her Majesty wearing when we catch glimpses of her on the BBC. Decorated with sugar roses and green leaves, this cookie is based on a design by royal milliner extraordinaire Rachel Trevor-Morgan. Pralines and iced cakes also make up the Royal Collection.

I’m jealous of anyone who will be roaming around Knightsbridge later this spring before Summer Olympics mayhem strikes and can just pop into the Berkeley’s Caramel Room for a break from luxury goods shopping. If you do need a place to rest your well-heeled heels, try the fashionista or Royal Collection teas, and email me the sweet juicy details.

10
Mar
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Not Excluding the All-Inclusive

This week, The New York Times featured an article about all-inclusive resorts stepping it up and making their allure more alluring. These are difficult economic times and free drinks isn’t a strong selling point anymore. The all-inclusive resorts are adding perks to their packages such as luxury meal deals, a variety of water sports, and a wider range of children’s programs. Obviously, resorts have harried families seeking a few relaxing days or weeks of sun and fun in mind.

More interesting than the article were the comments–remarks such as (and I’m paraphrasing) ‘you can’t experience another culture when you go to resort,’ or ‘why spend all that money to sit on a beach when you can just go to Florida’ or ‘a packaged vacation doesn’t mean you have to think.’

I used to view all-inclusives the way I still view Wal-mart–commercialism at its best and worst. That changed in 2007, when, after a few trying years, I was ready to spend the money to go somewhere far and beautiful and sit on a beach. We picked Coyaba, a small resort in Montego Bay, Jamaica, got on a plane, and four hours later, sat on a beach feeling pretty good about life.

The all-inclusive is good for just that–taking a break. I didn’t go to Coyaba to experience Jamaica. I went to cocoon somewhere warm. All-inclusives are not the best way to experience a culture, and that’s ok. After Coyaba, I no longer viewed resort guests as mindless tourists leaving obnoxious footprints all over what was once a pristine island. Many of them were just tired or overworked, like me, and just wanted to sit on a beach, read a good book and add another stamp to their passport, like me.

There’s no need to argue that all-inclusives fail to offer cultural insights because that’s not what they’re meant to do. If you want cultural insights, pack light, expect inconvenience and go with the flow. A year after Jamaica, we did 10 days in Quito and Galapagos Islands. The reason for the trip was that my daughter was a flower girl in a wedding taking place on the island San Cristobal. Look it up on the map — it’s far. We have family down there, and were fortunate to have enjoyed a very un-packaged sojourn that took us to hostels, beaches, highlands, and along some bouncy truck rides on some very dark, winding roads. Food took forever to arrive, sea lions blocked access to the beach, flights didn’t show up when the schedule said they would, crabs chased after my kid’s toy, and the Internet cafe was useless. There were no itineraries, and sometimes we had nothing handy to eat or drink but Oreos and Nescafe. And you know what? The trip was awesome, and just as rejuvenating as our four days in Jamaica, which catered to our every whim.

Mix it up. Every place has something to offer and every vacation is what you make of it. Doesn’t matter if you’re paying a la carte or if you paid one price to sit among pale, obese Americans who talk loudly and call everyone Jose (that actually happened during our trip to Spain). We do urban trips and for those, we often stay at two-star B&Bs like during our jaunts to Bruges, London and Paris. Pack comfortable walking shoes and don’t worry about calorie-counting–you walk it off with all the museums, shopping, and sightseeing (and save money on taxi fare). Our trip to Quebec next month will be like this. We also go rustic and swing a few different ways here–sometimes we’ll camp, like we used to in Shenandoah Valley or Assateague Island–sometimes we do mountain resorts like Mohonk Mountain House. When we return to California in August, we’ll be among the sentinels of the forest–the Redwood trees, and we’re staying at Glen Oaks Big Sur, a lodge that combines pastoral chic with mid-century mod. I can’t wait!

And we throw in the occasional all-inclusive, like our 2011 trip to Dreams Cancun. Yes, there were a lot of loud, heavy people at the resort drinking drinks the colors of popsicles and getting louder by the minute. We used Dreams as family headquarters and ventured off resort a few times. Based on our own observations and the reaction of our concierge, not a lot of people appear to do this unless they were going on another packaged trip, such as a bus ride to Xel-Ha (which we also did).

Coming up for 2013, we’re eyeballing a possible camping trip in Arizona and we want to celebrate a milestone birthday in Japan. Both trips should give me plenty to talk about.

7
Mar
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In Bloom

Washington, DC, is a city known for burning people out, yet trees appear to weather the hot air in our nation’s capital better than our politicians. The beloved cherry trees that serpentine through parks and along the Potomac river are still going strong after 100 years. In 1912, Tokyo gave DC 3,000 trees and wished a nation in its infancy purpose and prosperity, so this year, Washington celebrates its 100th anniversary of being home to these trees. These trees have seen leaders come and go–FDR telling us not to fear anything; Martin Luther King Jr. speaking to crowds on the National Mall; Nixon’s famous farewell before boarding a helicopter. When the trees puff out this month and look like swirls of fluffy pink cotton candy, Washington will look like Woodstock–colorful and crowded; who says Americans don’t care about the environment? We treat our cherry trees like rock stars.

Official cherry blossom viewing time is expected around March 24-27 this year, and the monthlong festival of pink blooms kicks off with the spring equinox on March 20. This festival attracts thousands of people from everywhere–even Japanese tourists, who have their own beautiful cherry blossom trees. Walking through the parks is not a picnic. You are shoulder to shoulder with locals and tourists as everyone shuffles along looking up at the trees clicking their cameras. We lived in Washington, DC, from 2000 to early 2004, and were amazed by the moment-to-moment news coverage leading up to cherry blossom season. Tree photosynthesis was reported like a major league sporting event. The stakes were high and the outcomes unclear. What if winter dragged its heels? News anchors would interview anxious botanists about the risks snow posed to the fragile blooms. Or if spring sprung early, the trees would bloom prematurely, and would anyone be there to see them? News anchors would interview anxious hotel owners praying Mother Nature would dial down the unpredictability.

If you’re looking for a fun long weekend, DC is the place. During the cherry blossom festival, the city hosts what was formerly known as the Smithsonian Kite Festival, which is magical and great for kids. What’s also great for families is that the kite festival is held on the National Mall, which is surrounded by Smithsonian institutions offering free admission to see dinosaur bones, Native American artifacts, and paintings by Mary Cassatt. The Smithsonian is as impressive as it sounds with 19 museums scattered across the city. We once ran into Angelina Jolie taking her boys through the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum, which is filled with models of airplanes and rockets suspended from the ceiling.

Our last visit to Washington, DC, was in April 2008, when Anna was still a preschooler and Angelina had only four kids. Much has changed since then, and we’re due for a return. We have our favorite places to eat: Rockland’s Barbeque on Wisconsin Avenue, just across the street from Whole Foods and a short walk from the National Cathedral; Old Ebbitt Grill, a classic Washington DC haunt that’s been dishing up beef, oysters and pretty much any form of animal flesh since 1856 (DC is a carnivorous city, in every possible way); and for the non-carnivorous crowd, Sticky Fingers Bakery in the delightful Adams Morgan neighborhood, a great place for vegan cupcakes.

Besides the food, Washington, DC, is wonderful for walking, much like Paris. I would love to see the new Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial, although my favorite is the Jefferson Memorial overlooking the tidal basin. He has one of the best views of the trees and I imagine his statue stepping down from its pedestal and walking among the cherry blossoms during the middle of the night when the crowds have gone, perhaps thinking what a remarkable, dynamic, messy, beautiful place America is.

28
Feb
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Wish List

Inspiration can come from anywhere and take you everywhere. For example, we went to Cuba because I read a magazine article while in Vienna, Austria, about Cuba’s inability to finance restorations of its historic buildings. Convinced everything would crumble before we had a chance to see it, I booked a trip to Cuba and enjoyed one of the most colorful, memorable weeks of my life. So what if the beaches are guarded? I encourage everyone to visit Cuba because when the Castro family dies, Starbucks and McDonalds will crop up like weeds and crowd out the beautiful decaying colonial buildings and virginal white beaches. Then Cuba will look like almost every other place on the planet. Here are a few shots of our trip in June 2003; not quite mojitos with Fidel, but still awesome.

Once, I was inspired by poultry. Yes, poultry. I read an article about wild chickens roaming Key West, Florida, and convinced my husband that we needed to run with the chickens–a much safer version, in my mind, than running with the bulls. We flew to Key West about two years ago and, much to my and my daughter’s delight, we zig zagged our rented bikes among the chickens. Later, we ate some, though I’m not sure our meals were cousins of the “free-range” chickens we biked with.

Now, I’m inspired by Frommers. 2012 marks Arizona’s 100th anniversary of statehood. Arizona happened to be on our list because a close friend recently moved there, but now this image of hot air ballooning across Sedona, Arizona, has me rushing to get there sooner rather than later, and I don’t even like to fly…on anything, whether it’s filled with jet fuel or oxygen. But I’m willing to skip the Xanax and hop on a hot air balloon if it means experiencing this stunning view.

Sticking with Arizona, another stop on my wish list includes “the Wave”, though I’m not a seasoned outdoorswoman; most U.S. national parks; Ireland’s countryside; Chiang Mai and Phuket; Italy–again, since I only spent four days there in 1996; almost anywhere in Africa; kimono shopping in Kyoto; Cuenca, Ecuador; the Canadian Rockies; a yoga retreat to India; and Poland, because that’s the mother land and I have a feeling I’ll blend in nicely over there.

I’m also very excited about our next jaunt, which will take us a few hundred miles north to the picturesque city of Quebec for some je ne sais quois. Since we’re driving and not flying (not because of a fear of flying, but because we’re cheap) we’re splurging on the hotel. I’m looking forward to sampling fromageries and all things dipped in maple sugar. Maybe there will be a dusting of snow on the ground. My last trip to Canada was a weekend in Vancouver more than 11 years ago, so I am long overdue for a return holiday. During my two nights in Vancouver, I stayed at the hotel President Clinton had visited while he was still in charge, and dined at Le Crocodile where I witnessed some of the most skilled tableside fileting of fish ever performed. I hope eastern Canadians are as talented with a blade as their western cousins.